Showing posts with label Andy Warhol. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Andy Warhol. Show all posts

Reflecting Fashion: Art and Fashion since Modernism

Wedding Dress 1967 by Christo at the Mumok, Vienna
The intersection of art and fashion is a topic that I never tire of, and the exhibition Reflecting Fashion at the Mumok in Vienna, Austria offers four floors of engaging examples that explore "clothing and fashion as an essential component of art".  The main themes of the exhibition include: Fashion as Modernism, Fashion as the eternal deputy of Surrealism, and From the Three-Piece Suit to the Deconstruction of Fashion.


Curators Susanne Neuburger in collaboration with Barbara RĂ¼diger explore the relationship between fashion, clothing and art, making reference to Charles Baudelaire in defining modernity through a concept of fashion and theorist Walter Benjamin in conferring a "revolutionary significance to fashion but also a certain primacy over art".


Regina Moller Dress and Photo at Mumok, Vienna
Some of the artists whose work is on display include Elsa Schiaparelli (Salvador Dali Lobster dress 1937), Ellsworth Kelly (Dress for Ann Weber 1952), Marcel Duchamp (Vest for Benjamin Peret 1958), Andy Warhol (Green Stamps Blouse 1965), Christo (Wedding Dress 1967), Cindy Sherman (Doll Clothes 1975 as well as photos from 1983-1990), among others.

Reform Dress early 1900s at Mumok, Vienna
This was an exhibition that I could have spent days in and I have to thank Valerie Steele for telling me about it. Valerie gave the keynote address "Is Fashion Art?" at the opening on June 15, 2012. This is an exhibition that I will long remember as offering one of the most comprehensive visual displays of the topic.

Reflecting Fashion: Art and Fashion since Modernism  
Exhibition runs until September 23, 2012
Mumok
MuseumQuartier, Museumsplatz 1, A-1070
Vienna, Austria


Creative Process Journal: Doll Houses and Wunderkammer

The Doll's House of Peronella Oortman c. 1686-1710
Inspiration for Viktor and Rolf's doll house
Another interesting aspect of the Viktor and Rolf 2008 retrospective at the Barbican Gallery was a 6-metre high doll's house which could be viewed from three different levels of the gallery. The giant Viktor and Rolf doll house references the seventeenth century cabinet houses or doll's houses from the collection of  the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, where Viktor and Rolf live and work. Designed by Siebe Tettero, the Viktor and Rolf dollhouse, was three storeys, with each room containing one or more dolls dressed in a Viktor and Rolf creation.

The concept of Viktor and Rolf's doll house reminds me of a cabinet of curiosities, or what was once known as the Wunderkammer.

Wunderkammer of Ferrante Imperato, Naples 1599
As a predecessor to the contemporary museum, the Wunderkammer differed widely from the clinical, purist aesthetic common in museums today. Celebrating curiosity and wonder, the Wunderkammer was popular during the 16th to 18th centuries.  Based on the idea that "an entire cosmos could be controlled within the confines of a room", an individual would present their collection of rare and unusual objects therein. The intent was to invoke a sense of wonder and stimulate creative thought. Objects were arranged to highlight aesthetic pleasure and sometimes optical illusions were created through mirrors and special lenses as a way of further distorting reality. The notion of the bizarre, the rare and the precious was celebrated with a sense of capricious lack of rational classification.

The Cabinet of Curiosities played with the same concept but on a smaller scale, generally confined to a cabinet which revealed the collection as drawers and panels were opened. According to Walter Benjamin, the notion of collecting is a form of memory in that "Every passion borders on the chaotic, but the collector's passion borders on the chaos of memories." (from Das Passagen-Werk, Volume 1 quoted in Putnam 12).


Museum by Joseph Cornell c1944-48

Many artists have also been inspired by the idea of Wunderkammer, using assemblage and bricolage to create collections of objects that provoke or inspire through their dialectical juxtaposition. In 1944-48, Joseph Cornell created an assemblage of objects called Museum which was presented in a red velvet lined box which emphasized the delicate contents of the glass specimen bottles contained therein.  More recently, artists like Andy Warhol (Raid the Icebox 1970), Jeffrey Vallance (The Travelling Nixon Museum 1991) Damien Hirst (Dead Ends Died Out, Explored, 1993), Fred Wilson (The Museum Mixed Metaphors, 1993), Sophie Calle (The Wedding Dress, 1999), and others have explored the concept of the museum as a medium of artistic expression.

Raid the Icebox by Andy Warhol, Museum of Art, Rode Island School of Design, 1970
I want to play with the concept of the curiosity cabinet or the more contemporary version of a museum in a box fascinating and use this form in some way as part of my creative project. How that will come together at this point, I'm not sure, but the concept  of containing memory in a box fills me with wonder.

References:

Evans, Caroline. The House of Viktor & Rolf. Ed. Susannah Frankel, et al. New York: Merrell, 2008.

Putnam, James.  Art and Artifact, The Museum as Medium. London: Thames and Hudson, 2009.

Creative Process Journal: Barbie

Barbie
In 1959, when the Barbie doll was first introduced onto the market by Ruth Handler, more than 350,000 units were sold and since then an estimated that over 1 billion dolls have been sold. She has survived a range of assaults, including the firing of Ruth Handler from the company in 1971 and backlash from feminists and women's rights advocates. Robin Swicord, an author and screenwriter, said "In countries where they don’t even sell makeup or have anything like our dating rituals, they play with Barbie. Barbie embodies not a cultural view of femininity, but the essence of woman” (qtd. in Lord 80). 


Barbie was a respectable version of the Lilli doll in Germany. Lilli was "a German doxie - an ice-blond, pixie-nosed specimen of an Aryan ideal" that was popular among German men who often placed her on the dashboards of their car or gave the doll as a gift to their girlfriends (Lord 8). Handler recast Lilli as a wholesome all-American girl and marketed the doll to young girls. The rest is the stuff of marketing legend.


Barbie has been characterized as "a space-age fertility symbol: a narrow-hipped mother goddess for the epoch of casarean sections" (Lord 75) and a scaling up of her hour glass proportions suggest that she would be unnaturally slender. According to Professor Janet Treasure, an expert on body size and image at the Institute of Psychiatry at King's College London, "Barbie's body shape and proportions are among the many things that play up to this 'thin ideal' which is ubiquitous these days. The promotion of dolls with such a body shape, and other things like size zero, have wider public health implications, like an increased risk of eating disorders." (Qtd. in BBC News On-line Magazine 2009)
Barbie by Jocelyn Grivauld
Nevertheless, the "mythic resonance of her form" and her longevity has made Barbie into an icon of popular culture (Lord 6). She has served as inspiration for a wide variety of artists including painters like Andy Warhol and Grace Hartigan, mixed media artists like Maggie Robbins (who hammers hundreds of nails into Barbies) and photographers like Barry Sturgill, Susan Evans Grove, Felicia Rosshandler, Dean Brown,  David Levinthal and Jocelyn Grivauld (who has "appropriated" the style of Dean Brown in depicting Barbie in iconic art references).


There is something about Barbie that I can relate to. Perhaps her embodiment of "perfection" is at the root of it, because those who know me well, know that I am haunted by the unattainable standard of  perfection. I can also relate to her German roots as well as the hostility that her petite frame engenders. In seeking out a doll double for my creative project, I would have to say that Barbie might be the one, although I'd definitely need to dress her in a more geeky, academic type of look.


References:
Lord, M. G. Forever Barbie: The Unauthorized Biography of a Real Doll. 1st ed. New York: Avon Books, 1994.

Skariachan, Dhanya. Mattel profit tops estimates, sales miss. Reuters in Globe and Mail. On-line Published Tuesday, Jan. 31, 2012, Accessed February 29, 2012 Link: http://www.theglobeandmail.com/globe-investor/mattel-profit-tops-estimates-sales-miss/article2320652/ 

Van der Broek, Anna. Barbie Inspired Art. Forbes Magazine Published March 5, 2009. Accessed February 29, 2012. 


Winterman, Denise. What would a real life Barbie look like? BBC News Magazine. Tuesday, March 9, 2009. On-line. Accessed February 29, 2012. Link: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/magazine/7920962.stm

Le Grand Monde d'Andy Warhol

Being a huge fan of Andy Warhol's work, I could not miss seeing the exhibition "Le Grand Monde d'Andy Warhol" in Paris. Even on a Sunday night, the exhibition was packed with people but that did not stop me from taking a close look at the many gems on display. I was astonished at how many celebrities he captured. There were rooms and rooms of portraits and it felt like a walk back in time.

Seeing this exhibition prompted me to finally undertake an Andy Warhol style portrait. (Something I've wanted to do for ages but never got around to). This is a portrait that I made of my friend Laura. It is her birthday today and although she doesn't know it yet, this will be her present! Happy Birthday Laura!

Portrait of Laura by Ingrid Mida, copyright 2009

Le Grand Monde d'Andy Warhol
March 18 to July 13, 2009
Grand Palais, Champs Elysees, Paris France

P.S. It is also Josephine Bonaparte's birthday today and Lucy at Enchanted by Josephine is having a party. Joy at Cupid's Charm made a beautiful necklace for the Josephine blog-giveaway. Join the fun by visiting these two delightful blogs!!
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