Toile de Jouy

Photo of Bedcoverings from 1785 from Quilts of Province by Kathryn Berenson

I am utterly besotted with Toile de Jouy, a printed cotton fabric with patterns of country scenes, characters or floral motifs that originated in France in the 18th century. This beautiful fabric traditionally came in red and white, blue and white or sepia and white.

The manufacturing and trade of toile de jouy made a fortune for Baron Christophe-Phillippe Oberkampf (1738-1815) who owned a factory in Jouy-en-Josas. His expertise in copper-plate and copper-roller printing allowed the creation of large-scale prints with scenic, allegorical and historical figures. Popular for bed coverings, drapery and furniture upholstery, this fabric was in high demand in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries and was widely copied in France and England.

The Musée de la Toile de Jouy presents the history and technique of printed fabrics from 1760 to 1843 using drawings, models and materials such as the wooden blocks, copper plates, rollers, dyes and frames used in the process. There is also an impressive collection of the fabrics themselves in which the stylistic changes in taste and fashion can be seen through a range of designs. The factory itself closed down over 100 years ago but this lovely fabric still inspires designers and artists (including me).

I would dearly love to see this museum during my upcoming trip to Paris. Unfortunately, it is 19 km southeast of Paris and 4 miles southeast of Versailles. I'm not sure I'll be able to fit it into my jam-packed itinerary. If anyone has any suggestions on where to find fabric in Paris, I'd be ever so grateful if you could leave a comment!

Musee de Toile de Jouy
54 rue Charles de Gaule
Chateau de l'Eglantine
Jouy Les Loges
33 139 56 48 64

P.S. Happy 120th Birthday to The Eiffel Tower today! It is fascinating that this beloved icon was once considered an "odious column of bolted metal" and "the dishonour of Paris" when it was selected as the centerpiece of the 1889 Paris Exposition Universelle.

Recycling Fashion

Photo from Quilts of Provence by Kathryn Berenson

Although recycling fashion is currently in vogue, this practice is hardly new. In the eighteenth century (and going back in time), the most valuable part of a garment was often the textile itself. Fabric was so expensive that it was reused many times over until it was worn and faded. And even then, it might still serve as the lining for other garments.

In the photo, a jupon (skirt) and caraco (short jacket) from about 1780 are displayed on the mannequin inside out allowing us to see the patching of worn spots or rips.

Another example of how a dress was refashioned is the dress attributed to Marie Antoinette owned by the Royal Ontario Museum. This lovely gown (believed to be from the atelier of Rose Bertin in 1780s) was recut and refashioned in the 1880s to suit the style of the time.


Although the practice of recycling garments is probably what saved this dress, what a shame that we cannot see this dress in its original glory!

Book Review: Quilts of Provence, The Art and Craft of French Quiltmaking

I love beautiful textiles of all kinds. And even though I know very little about the art of quilting, I was captivated by this gem of a book "Quilts of Provence, The Art and Craft of French Quiltmaking" by Kathryn Berenson.

A dear friend,who is a passionate quilter, lent it to me. She thought I would enjoy it because of the many photos of French 18th century quilted textiles. She was right! I now want to buy the book for myself and have even contemplated learning how to quilt! (If only I could take lessons from Tristan of Enchanted Revelry....sigh).

What I fell in love with were the all-white broderie de Marseille quilts of the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries. This form of quilting creates subtle plays of light and shadow on the surface of the textile with intricate patterns of stitching, incorporating cording and delicate stuffing into the stylized forms. According to the author "Knowlegeable French call these elegant works 'confections' and refer to the process of stitching them as 'embroidery from within'.

Quilted garments were prized for their beauty and warmth in 18th century France, and Provencal woman's social status was quickly determined by the quality of the stitching on her embroidered petticoat or jupon. Quilted short jackets and stays were also popular as were quilted garments for babies.

Arlesiene Aux Yeux Bleues by Antoine Raspal (1770)


This book is divided into seven chapters including:
Introduction to French Textiles and Quilting
The Needle Arts of Provence
Embroidery from Within
Provencal Colors, Provencal Patterns
On the World Stage
Continuing the Tradition
Quilting Projects

Also included are appendices on How to Care for and Display Quilts and Where to See and Buy French Quilts.

This book is a treasure for quilters, lovers of fashion history, and those passionate about anything French. Not only is it well-written in clear and precise prose, but there are lots of colour photographs to linger over, especially if you want/need to be transported to Provence.

Title: Quilts of Provence, The Art and Craft of French Quiltmaking
Author: Kathryn Berenson
Publisher: Potter Craft, New York (1996 and 2007)
Category: Non-fiction, Quilting; Fashion History, Textiles
Number of Pages: 216
Price: US $45 Canada $56